Choosing Rodeo Spurs & Spur Straps: A Straight Guide

Spurs are one of those pieces of gear people either overthink or don't think about at all. Some riders agonize over rowel counts and shank angles; others grab the first pair on the rack and never look at the strap holding them on. The truth sits in the middle. Spurs matter, the details do make a difference, and a good strap is just as important as the spur itself. Here's a straight guide to picking both.

What spurs actually do

A spur is a cueing and signaling tool. In riding disciplines it's how you communicate with a horse; in rough stock it helps you hold your position and mark out on the animal. It is not, when used right, about punishment — it's about precision and control. Different jobs call for different spurs, and that's where the categories come in.

Bull spurs vs riding spurs

This is the distinction that trips up most beginners.

Riding spurs are the general-purpose spurs you'd use for everyday riding, training, and a lot of western events. The shank, band, and rowel are set up for cueing a horse. The Saddle Barn Adult Spurs ($34.99) are a solid, affordable, general-purpose starting point — a good honest pair to learn on and use across a range of riding.

Bull spurs are built specifically for bull riding, and they're different on purpose. The setup — shank angle, band shape, and especially the rowel — is designed to help a bull rider grip and hold his feet in position on the animal. A key feature is that the rowels are often set to lock loosely, so they catch and hold rather than spin freely, which helps the rider stay planted. The Saddle Barn Bull Spur 2 1/4" with Rowels ($47.99) is a purpose-built option for exactly this.

If you're bull riding, get a bull spur. A general riding spur isn't set up for the job. And if you're riding horses, a bull spur is the wrong tool. Match the spur to the event.

Understanding rowels

The rowel is the spinning (or loosely locked) wheel at the end of the spur. Rowel design changes how the spur feels and functions:

  • More points, blunter and closer together generally means a milder, more diffuse feel.
  • Fewer points, farther apart generally means a more pointed, direct feel.
  • How freely it spins matters too — a free-spinning rowel rolls across, while a locked or loosely locked rowel (common on bull spurs) catches and holds.

For general riding, a moderate rowel is a fine place to start. For bull riding, the rowel setup on a dedicated bull spur is doing specific work, so trust the purpose-built design rather than improvising.

Don't overthink your first pair. A sensible, moderate rowel on a decent spur will teach you more than chasing some exotic configuration before you know what you're feeling for.

Spur straps: the part people forget

Here's the thing nobody tells beginners: your spur is only as good as the strap holding it on. Spur straps take real abuse, and a strap that fails mid-ride is a genuine problem — at best your spur's flopping around, at worst it's gone when you need it. So don't cheap out on the strap, and check it before every ride.

The store carries straps built for the punishment of rough stock:

A good strap holds tension, doesn't stretch loose through a ride, and has honest hardware. Leather straps want the same care as any leather good — kept clean, conditioned, and inspected for cracking or thinning where they bend.

Adult vs youth

Sizing matters more than people assume. A strap that's too long on a young rider leaves excess flopping and doesn't hold the spur securely; too short and it won't fasten right. Get gear sized for the rider. The Junior Rough Stock Spur Strap ($30.99) exists specifically so younger riders aren't stuck making an adult strap work. If you're outfitting a kid getting into rough stock, size the strap to them, not to the biggest thing on the rack.

How to fit spurs and straps

  • Spur band should sit snugly around the heel of your boot without pinching or sliding around. Too loose and the spur rotates out of position; too tight and it's uncomfortable and hard to get on.
  • Shank should sit at the right height and angle for your discipline — level and positioned so the rowel is where it should be when your foot's in riding position.
  • Strap goes over the top of the boot and under the arch (or as your spur style calls for), snug enough that the spur stays put through movement. Check the buckle or fastener holds and re-check it before you ride.

Try them on with the boots you'll actually ride in. A spur that fits one boot may sit differently on another.

Bottom line

Match the spur to the event: general Adult Spurs ($34.99) for riding, a purpose-built Bull Spur with Rowels ($47.99) for bull riding. Don't neglect the strap — a good rough stock spur strap ($39.99), or the junior version ($30.99) for kids, is what keeps the whole setup working. Fit both to the rider and the boot, and check them before every out.

Browse the full range in the Spurs & Spur Straps collection, or see how spurs fit into a complete kit in our rough stock rodeo gear guide.

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